There was a change in the area code for Kittenning, PA affecting several exchanges, but only one exchange listed for 543.
So then, since I found the number here, I assumed their phone dialer had not changed their caller ID to be up to date with the new area code- no matter it is just the caller ID, not the actual number dialed from- spoofed- only because it was not updated.
Then I searched and found several collection agencies in the area:
This one looks promising as the source:
http://www.manta.com/coms2/dnbcompany_h0d4b2
But since it is not an exact match I cannot be 100%. However, I can be reasonably certain it is a collector.
I do have a few collector calls while still trying to find my next gig, so I made a special place in my phone for them- under Z.Collection and I just fill up the different numbers (home, home2, work, work2, fax, pager, cell) with different collectors as they call from different numbers. Then when I see the readout, I just ignore the call.
It is always better to deal with the original companies who you are indebted anyway, since the collector is just trying to earn their commission. When you do not pay them, they drop the campaign eventually- because they have exhausted their man hours to keep it profitable. If the original company still wants to collect, they will find another collection agency to give it a go- until they finally write it off. However, for your own credit history, it is a good idea to make payments.
Now, if you are considering making payments to a creditor- not a collection company- no one should pay a collection agency-
First remember- that even if you negotiate a deal and get your amount reduced- a good first step- you still must pay food, clothing, shelter, car (gas, insurance), medicine (if required) first. Then everything else comes after that. If there is not much left, you are not paying anyone until that changes- no matter how screwed up your credit history.
Now, the day will come when you do want to pay your debts- this day is:
1. After you land a job for more than 3 months.
2. After you have a cushion at the bank to avoid overdrafts (over $1000 in each/all checking accounts)
3. After you replace the broken down car (if you have one-because you need it to work)
Do you need good credit?
Well if above is true and you meet the criteria for paying off your debts-
Pay them off only if they are 5 years old. Items drop off of your credit history every 7 to 10 years so if you pay off or make any payment on an item on the report- the 10 year clock starts over again. Why would you want a debt from 1990 to keep affecting your ability to buy a house in 2010?
Ok- so the debt is less than 5 years old- pay it off in 6 months- not immediately. It shows a history of paying down the debt.
Use Dave Ramsey's Debt Snowball if you can.
(By the way, all these ideas are not his- except paying creditors last which I agree with and the snowball)
Do you need credit?
Only if you do not save your money. I know FRNs are worthless, and the government is screwing us all blind up the A$$. Still, a percentage of your liquidity should be in cash to pay for expenses within 1 to 3 years.
If you are saving for a house- you want to put that money in Gold. Right now, as expensive as houses seem- they are about 200 oz of gold for a $200,000 house. Housing prices are falling, so it may take less gold to buy them.
As gold goes up in dollars the price of houses will, and as gold falls so will housing prices- but it is not exact. The point is even if Gold loses value in USD that only means that the American Greenback has gained value against it. A suckers bet for sure. It will fluctuate only in terms of the thievery of the Fed.
See Peter Schiff on the FED, Housing Bubble, etc.
There are lots of places on the internet to watch spot pricing for gold. Be careful where you buy it- not all gold vendors are reputable, as the market for gold has exploded in proportion to the amount of greenbacks being created digitally on a computer screen or printed- not backed by production in the US economy or Gold.